Modeling Agencies: Reality Checks and Building Relationships
I’ve thought a lot about this lately, partly, as I’ve had more models in the last twelve months approach me directly than ever before. Often skipping or circumnavigating the role their agencies meant to play entirely. The right agency and the right agent can catapult you into a fulfilling and lucrative career, while the wrong choice can leave you stranded, feeling like there’s something wrong with you.
The complexities of selecting the ideal agency can be daunting, and even the most successful agency, can be the wrong choice, with the right insights and approach, you can increase your chances to make this work. This article sheds light on the most crucial aspects to consider, from the industry's inherent biases and the importance of strategy to the power of relationships.
Reality Check: The Unequal Terrain of Modeling
Let's start with a candid fact: the modelling industry isn't an equal playing field. Aspiring models should be aware that physical attributes—height, measurements, and uniqueness—matter a lot. While hard work and strategy can sometimes tip the scales, these innate traits largely shape your career trajectory. What works will change in different markets which means that many cultural norms, beauty standards, and social trends will play a role.
That said no one likes to bring up that many of the most successful models push against the general trends listed. Many of the most sucessful models I know, are self made, with agencies play very little part in their success.
Clarifying Your Goals
Before you start looking at agencies, crystallize your career aspirations. Are you aiming for high-end editorial work, or do commercial gigs align more closely with your vision? Knowing this will help you target agencies that are a good fit for your career goals. For most models, it’s a career they fall into, this is NOT a regular job, and the process has been demystified and changed rapidly due to the adoption of social media.
Questions to Ask Potential Agencies
During interviews with agencies, focus on questions that give you insight into their strategy for your career growth, market trends, and their initial plans for you.
One of the biggest things you need to look at is there are different types of agents and agencies. A lot of people would say you don’t need to like your management, but I disagree. You should feel that they have your best interests at heart and that they’re there to work for you. I hear stories about turning up to meetings and models saying it felt like they were doing me a favour; I would say that’s a huge red flag, and it’s a sign to get out. Also if the only discussions you hear from other models is weight, it might be worth considering whether that environment will be good for your mental health.
What is your agency's strength, where do I fit into that?
What's your strategy for developing new talent?
How many models does each booker handle?
Where do you see the modeling market going in the next few years?
What trends have you noticed that could impact my particular look or style?
What would the first six months look like if I were to sign with your agency?
Can you provide examples of how you've developed the careers of models similar to me?
What kinds of relationships do you maintain with photographers, stylists, and publications?
Who are your biggest regular clients, or which models have built the longest/largest careers with you?
These questions allow you to assess not just the agency's capabilities but also how closely their vision aligns with your own. I believe in the local market, you might find many agents cagey with these questions, but they are worth asking.
Big International Agencies vs. Smaller Local Agencies
Big International Agencies can offer a vast network and a variety of opportunities, but their large talent pools often result in less personal attention. Smaller Agencies, however, can provide more focused care, albeit sometimes at the cost of limited connections and opportunities.
With models, look at how big their boards are, how many agents they have, how they’re being managed, as a general rule, if an agency has 100 models and only two bookers, you’re going to get lost. Even a smaller agency with too few staff will lead to a lack of personal insight into you and your career.
Mother Agency vs. General Modeling Agency
Understanding agency types is crucial. A Mother Agency serves as your primary management, shaping your overall career and connecting you to agencies worldwide. A General Modeling Agency is often more localized, focusing on specific markets without overseeing your broader career strategy. How this affects you, is based on your outlook, are you aiming to work internationally?
Networking and Industry Relationships
In modeling, your network is your net worth. The agency's relationships with clients, photographers, stylists, and publications can either accelerate your career or hold it back. Ensure your potential agency has the connections that benefit you in the long term.
The Investment Phase: Building Your Portfolio
Getting your foot in the door often requires a period of investment. Many new models work unpaid gigs to build a strong portfolio. Agencies with robust networks can connect you with top photographers and stylists, giving you a significant advantage during this phase.
Traditionally, agencies used to spend money in this phase, these days, it’s about the amount of personal time they’re able to dedicate to you. Portfolio tests could run up to $2000 a shoot, depending on the level of talent they use to build your book, many good agencies will book a full team; studio, photographer, make-up, hair, and stylist.
Now, I’ve used the word test without explaining it, to test, means to try things, experiment, improve, traditionally it was called “test for print”, trying ideas before submitting to publication, these days it’s a way to say “free”. Every photographer, makeup artist, stylist, and creative has personal projects that they do for free, or at least at a lower fee. However, not all tests are created equally, and testing can be a waste of time if you are not working with the right people.
Testing, is a way to get practice, to build up your hours as a model, to get comfortable in front of the camera, try new things, and be directed to create things you may never have been able to dream up alone. At the same time, if you or your agency arrange a lot of test shoots, and they don’t help your book, or in fact cheapen it. It can have the opposite of the desired effect. Much like an athlete needs to make sure they have good form, a model who tests a lot with bad teams, will develop bad habits, and end up looking contrived, forced, and uncomfortable in front of the camera. Keep this in mind, and as much as you look at an agencies book online, look at the individual models, and most importantly their tagged photos on social media, as these can be the most important insight into their pull of talent.
Red Flags and Pitfalls
Lack of Long-term Strategy: Some agencies excel at getting you gigs but fall short when it comes to long-term career development.
Transparency Issues: If an agency is reluctant to share their connections or specific plans for your development, consider it a red flag.
Contract Traps: Always read the fine print and have an exit strategy in case the relationship sours.
Choosing an agency is a decision that shapes the future of your modelling career. While the industry has its biases, the right agency, combined with your dedication and strategic planning, can set you on a path to long-lasting success. Ask the right questions, understand your needs, and make a decision that aligns with your career aspirations.
Remember, if you don’t find someone who fits, it doesn’t mean you cannot make a career out of this. Many of the most successful models have built an audience on social media, showcasing more off than just their looks, a voice, personality, art direction, and vision for yourself are things you can invest in yourself.
Good luck!
Oli
