Some hard truths about modeling agencies
These are some truths about modeling and the agencies that kinda suck, these might seem bitter or jaded, or cynical, but I think it’s important; we need to have open conversations around managing talent. There’s one in particular agency where models go to get an eating disorder. There’s another one, where from multiple people I’ve heard they have placed girls inside Justin Hemmes Level Six “bar” where they’re pushed to drink and entertain old men. I can’t confirm these things; defamation is a real problem, but I can say that if you can guess who they are, you should stay away from them.
More importantly, ask models who have contracts. It’s easy enough to do; you can jump on their websites to find models who are under their management that you can reach out to.
Many models will never make a full-time living; in fact, they’ll lose money, time, and more stable career opportunities chasing the dream. The more models an agency has in a small country like Australia, the less time agents can spend with you on your development, and the less likely you are to make enough money to live off.
And I don’t want to sound callous, but if your booker weighs you every time you see them and tells you you need to lose weight, tries to push you to see a PT, and keeps commenting about how puffy you look, they do not have your best interests at heart.
If your booker blames you for not booking jobs, they do not have your best interests at heart.
If you aren’t getting any work, and they are not lining up test shoots for you, they do not have your best interests at heart.
You don’t have a problem; they do.
Agencies really do need to consider their duty of care, and we need to have frank conversations about what achievable measurements are for individuals. We must also accommodate and develop talent that isn’t built around measurements.
I don’t see that changing unless someone starts outing the bookers for their behaviour.
Terry Richardson, the predator photographer, had access to young women for over a decade; who facilitated that? The agents who still have jobs. (you can read about him here, but strong trigger warning).
I say this all because I will continue to talk too loudly about the things we are meant to be quiet about. It will probably cost me work, but I owe my success to the models I have built good relationships with, so I will say the quiet thing even louder now, especially in a post-Trump world.
Agencies really should be good at these things:
Development — building your portfolio, aka. Your book, and putting the right photos in it so clients hire you. Teaching you how to walk. Managing expectations for clients. Helping you debut shows and make the right impression
Bookings — managing relationships with clients
Scouting — picking talent they can get jobs
Management — Maintaining and building careers that span more than the bracket of 16-19 years of age.
Placement — Sending you o/s with an agency/with contacts/casting directors
There are only two fees that should be passed onto talent:
Test shoots with talented photographers (not amateurs)
Portfolio fees — to print your book
These should be at most $2000 per annum.
Australian law requires agencies to pay:
10% GST and 7.5% super on top of their 20% fee. So technically speaking, many contracts look like they are taking upwards of 40%, but everyone has to pay GST, and super is a legal requirement for modeling agencies to pay; these aren’t negotiable agencies can avoid. They are not doing their job correctly if they are not covering these fees.
There are also “fake” agencies around.
If an agency does not have a single model who has gotten a campaign, they are likely a fake agency.
If their Instagram has not been updated in months, they are likely a fake agency.
If they are asking you to pay fees first, they are likely a fake agency.
If they are asking you to enrol in a course to be a model first, they are likely a fake agency.
If they are asking for underwear photos, they are likely a fake agency.
If their email address is @gmail, @hotmail, @outlook, etc, they are likely a fake agency.
If they do not have a physical office, they are likely a fake agency.
How can you tell if an agency is good at any of the above skills?
Development: New talent are going to tests, their portfolios are being updated, and their look is being figured out, maybe there’s a hair and wardrobe change.
Bookings: The agency's models are getting paid work; it’s only really obvious if you follow their models whether this is the case.
Scouting: They’re signing new talent and they’re going places.
Management: They have models older than 23, they don’t just drop talent.
Placement: Their models are working overseas.
If you are over twenty-one and still want to get signed, you have your work cut out for you as well; many women come to me when they are older, wanting a contract, it’s not impossible, but agents are time poor in this country, they tend to go with what’s already worked, models who have booked campaigns already, OR who are 18 years old, but who look twenty-three, yes it’s a paradox, yes it’s shitty, but I am not here to be nice, I am here to be kind, and tell you the truth.
If you think you have it and want to still try modeling, I am more than happy to help you build your book. You can email me for my rates, both on the beach and in the studio.
The number one thing you can do on your own is development; that means going and getting photos with professional photographers (anyone can own a camera, not everyone can shoot a campaign), upgrading your wardrobe, reaching out and networking, getting on PR lists for events, and ultimately, finding your own voice on social platforms.
Many models have gotten campaigns off shooting with me or other photographers with whom brands follow and have relationships. I’ve had models scouted through my blog, but these stories are not the norm.
Without an agency, you’ll need to have a strong book that contains your own stylistic choices, and your social platforms should be more than just shots that look hot; models tell stories for brands; that’s the job, and the more you can communicate visually, the more likely you are to have opportunities. It helps to have a strong look, it helps to look for models who have made it, who have similar features to you, it pays to see a hairstylist dermatologist, have a PT, gym membership, eat well, and look after yourself because all these things will contribute to making this path work out for you.
There are models I know who make a living WITHOUT an agency; they are few and far between as it requires business acumen, relationships, and a look that clients are looking for.
I hope this is heeded as a decent warning and that you avoid some of the pitfalls many of my friends have fallen for.
