Getting the most out of paid shoots
One of the most significant concerns models have is whether the photos they’re paying for are worth it. It’s a hard one, and I get it; you’re meeting a stranger and spending a few hours with them to improve your portfolio, comfort and skill in front of the camera.
During shoots, I’ve seen looks of being unsure, bordering on scared. I get it; there’s a vulnerability to the work that can be hard to explain to outsiders. It can be the most uncomfortable thing you go through, especially if it’s freezing and you’re shooting swimwear. The whole process is a lot more intensive than most people give it credit, so I thought I would detail things that will help.
I think of paid shoots like jeans, mainly because I love denim; I will spend more on good jeans because they’ll last; as they age, they’ll still look great. They’re an investment piece in my wardrobe, and I look fucking great in them. Bad jeans, though, after two washes are a mess, and they don’t hold their shape, and on-trend ones tend only to last a year. TLDR: I buy selvage Nudie Jeans (lol, yeah I’m plugging, please sponsor me).
Images I’ve taken and aspirational references I would usually share before a shoot.
I want the images I shoot to be in your portfolio for three years, not just on your Instagram feed for a week and then readily forgotten. I do a lot to make my work timeless, shooting film, working with you to create multiple looks, picking a good location and working with you on the styling and aesthetic.
These tips are universal, though! They’re stuff you can take to other photographers; they’re things you can use to figure out what you want from your portfolio. They should make all shoots easier.
These are all things you should work through, whether it’s with me or with someone else. It’s an investment in time, often money and should result in improvements and images that you love. One of my favourite parts is seeing a models reaction after we’ve finished shooting.
Anyone who shoots with me, I think I’ll end up linking them to this post because I think we often expect people to turn up and know what they’re doing as a photographer, and practising empathy is critical here!
It’s easiest when someone is on the same page. I spend a lot of time making sure they are, but it’s not always an easy process. We have our own beliefs, doubts and expectations, and the more we communicate, the easier it is to be on the same page. I love spending that time figuring that out. The more I know of your expectations, the easier it is to meet them.
Shoots are a team effort, and the more you work together, the more you understand what someone is trying to achieve, the easier it is.
I want to start with the basics, and the hardest thing for me to explain, or for anyone to explain, which is facial expression. There are certain things that work well, and when you’re starting, a lot of models try to opt for the stiff blue steel look you see from Derek Zoolander:
Despite popular opinion this is not how you bring sexy back
The best way to practice is to video yourself using your Phone. A good tripod goes a long way like this one (unsponsored work plug).
The second part is even more important, get more dynamic, this video with Kate Moss might be low quality, but the insights and movement she does in 44 seconds highlight how dynamic models should be aiming to be:
Then it’s about posing, and movement, this short video with Julia Trotti is excellent because you can watch it is pretty casual, and she moves a lot; it’s not stiff and stuck in one post. The great thing with digital is you can shoot a lot and worry about cutting down later (a little more challenging with film), but you can see that you don’t need just to drop a shoulder and stay stuck in one spot:
I would say figuring out some poses and positions that suit you and you like a lot is a great thing to do. With many influencers I shoot, it is often pretty hard to get them to stop repeating patterns they've picked up that bring them the most likes/engagement on Instagram. You must listen, take feedback, and ask questions. I sometimes go silent when I'm thinking hard about a shot, and I know that can be pretty tense, asking "what do you think", "is this working", "do you think X would be better"; is a great way to move things forward, especially if you're working with someone more junior.
As a photographer, we have to make the most of each moment. The more you create shapes and express yourself effortlessly, the easier my job is, the more flow and energy we have to build on. Still, as a model, you need to have life; the more expression and variation you bring to your posing and movement, the easier it is to create something dynamic and exciting that draws your viewers, audience and clients. It will also help your book a lot.
A little more risqué, but this shoot with Kate Bock is beautiful! I think one of the things to look at is how she still makes a lot of small movements, and for swim, that's a big thing; it should look and feel effortless but at the same time contain quite a bit of nuance:
That's the most challenging part, knowing what to do with your body, figuring out the flow and movement that you love and feel comfortable with; that feels like an expression of you; that's what makes things come together.
The next part, which is a real team effort, is the styling. I include what to bring/wear in all my briefs, depending on the model and how far down the rabbit hole we've gone.
As a minimum, I would figure out how many looks you want from the moodboard to complete; if you have a dress, two bikinis and a t-shirt and jeans you all think will work, have cross-referenced and fit together, go for it. Often it takes more planning, especially if you're new and this is the first time for you. You may also need to keep in mind the aesthetic of the team you're working with because if you can't all get on the same page, it will feel very stop and start, and you may end up hating all the images.
For the shoots on my Instagram, my list usually is as follows:
I always recommend wearing the first look you want to shoot, or if it’s cold, stick something easy to get in and out on over the top; trackies, or something loose an easy you could use to get changed under is a great option.
Towels! Don’t forget them, you’ll want two; so you can get changed privately, and to use them as props. Also great to dry off if we get in the water and to stay warm.
Any and all swimwear you own + Bras/Matching sets if you’re comfortable —plain colours is awesome, so much of this is about movement and form so don’t sweat it too much, if you aren’t don’t worry, this is a guide, and it’s important we work with what you feel good in.
Button Up Shirts (linen, & white pref)
Singlets, crop tops, mesh tops, (simple stuff that doesn’t take away from your personality) A pair of jeans
T Shirts Fitted, Plain or Vintage
A pair or two of shorts (that you would wear with the shirts you have)
Any cool jackets, or accessories that could be added as well would be awesome.
A sarong if you have it!
As you can see it gives me a lot to play with, it’s a small suitcase worth of stuff, but often I’m picking stuff based on movement, the weather, and how we work together, so the more options the better. The more information and sharing in the brief the easier it is to finalise.
This one brings up a lot of anxiety for models, but it is make up. Honestly I don’t edit much and on top of that I stress that less is more. That means embracing your natural features that make you unique, not hiding your freckles, or putting on lots and lots of fake tan. Finally, and here’s a difficult one but eyelash extensions might look great in real life, and for video, but for stills they’re overkill. I find one of the things that can really ruin a shoot is large eyelash extensions. I don’t particularly enjoy making these criticisms as they’re a personal preference and you should feel great, but for shoot, it really helps to strip back and I definitely take a less is more attitude.
Most of what we’re talking about happens before a shoot, and honestly, what I’m really stressing is the more planning and the less left to chance, the better the end result.
So in summary!
Planning is important! You need to research, ask questions and know what you’re signing up for, understand what the photographers offering and what you’re getting ✅
Be comfortable with your movement and expression, if you aren’t, get some practice runs on the board before your shoot ✅
You need to know what sort of photos you’re getting, have a goal with the styling and direction and have it all in writing! The best shoots are the ones that are planned! ✅
Rinse and repeat, one shoot isn’t going to make or break, keep at it! ✅
Finally, if you’ve done all this, you should now be relaxing and enjoying doing the work!
A lot of the work is ready done here before we shoot, and I’ll be the first to admit, often models feel like they turn up and its effortless, but that’s because on my end, I’ve picked the location, I’ve often sourced props to match and go with their looks, whether its flowers, or some fruit and a lounge chair. I do my best to make sure those finishing touches are there.
